Crossing Kansas

Kansas's Stunning Red Hills

2012-01-16T12:21:00.000-06:00

(with apologies for technical difficulties that precluded the addition of images to this post - please visit http://www.kansastravel.org/gypsumhills.htm)

On January 10, the Kansas City Star described a new conservation effort designed to preserve Kansas's 'Red Hills,' a spot in the lower half of the state that looks like it was plucked from the nation's southwestern region.

Gypsum is a major mineral in these hills, which were formed about 260 million years ago - the last vestiges of an inland sea that stretched from north to south across a broad swath of the continent. Wide open spaces are perfect for harnessing power from gusty winds that sweep the area. The Nature Conservancy has created this new protective initiative, for a region where the lesser prairie chicken and other indigenous wildlife thrive, and unsullied waterways and bat caves abound.

What I remember most about my view of these gorgeous hills is driving open mouthed, for more than 15 miles, as I approached the town of Medicine Lodge and then grudgingly watching them fade in my rear view mirror. This had to be one of my favorite areas of landscape throughout the state.

Downtown Overland Park Renaissance

2012-01-02T17:28:00.000-06:00

By the time the 2011 holiday season rolled around, Downtown Overland Park had plenty to celebrate. Local media have taken notice too, including a November report on Fox 4 News, in which several businesses talked about the significance of Small Business Saturday.

If you haven't visited there in awhile, you're in for a big surprise. There's much more to Downtown Overland Park than the farmer's market.

The original heart of this sprawling suburb hosts a plethora of thriving established businesses joined by enthusiastic newcomers. And DTOP (Downtown Overland Park) has recently become known as something of a 'foodie' destination. *The Tasteful Olive - offering gourmet oils, vinegars and food items - has become a culinary destination along with 'old-timers,' The Culinary Center of Kansas City and Penzeys Spices. Beside The Tasteful Olive, The Upper Crust Pie Bakery added a second location to its longtime original site, at Pryde's Old Westport, in Kansas City, MO, just in time for the holiday season.

Elsa's Ethiopian Restaurant has received high marks for its savory, exotic cuisine since its summer opening as has El Salvadoreno's family-made authentic fare, available since fall. They join old and new favorites that include Papa Keno's Pizza, The Other Place, The Clocktower Bakery, Great Day Cafe and t.a.s.t.e (currently for sale).

Stop by for great food and then visit several galleries, a train shop, a store with handcrafted items from throughout the world, another dedicated to travelers and still another dedicated to bird lovers. Allow yourself a day to savor the joys of DTOP's Renaissance.

*I currently work here, part-time.

Gella's Diner and Lb. Brewing Co. - Hays

2011-11-28T07:11:00.000-06:00

There's a sparkling brewing room near the perimeter of Gella's Diner and Lb. Brewing Co. Locals love the brew pub - and so does the brewing world. Their Liberty Stout won its second consecutive gold award at the 2010 Great American Beer Festival, in the American-style Stout Category.

Gella's has a funky vibe, full of bright colors and vintage patio chairs. Through the open doorway, Lb. offers a cozy environment full of dark wood and brightened by large front windows.

There's a huge menu, with a nod to Hays's German heritage. For a German taste sensation, order the Bierock, a 'pastry' stuffed with seasoned beef, cabbage and cheddar. Creamy cheese sauce smothers the entire bierock. Freshly prepared kettle chips make a great accompaniment although those watching their figures can request a side of fresh, sauteed vegetables. Pale ale makes a perfect pairing.

You'll find plenty of other great menu offerings too, from beerwurst and schnitzelwich to a smoked turkey club, pesto pasta, or a huge, juicy ground steak burger.

Falafel pitas, bacon-wrapped shrimp filled with seafood stuffing, and a chicken tamale are but a small sample of the remaining eclectic and international menu. Don't miss this popular dining and watering hole when you visit the heart of Hays.

A Chance Meeting and a Blog Exchange

2011-11-21T09:03:00.000-06:00

Baxter Springs 'rainbow' bridge

As I traveled through Kansas while doing research for my book, An Explorer's Guide: Kansas one of my daily mantras was 'I am with the right people in the right place at the right time.' I was amazed when I reached a community museum just before a volunteer shut off the lights, or visited a burger joint where the now-retired founders just happened to be eating lunch, or missed an encounter with an F-1 tornado by 1 1/2 hours. But I guess that speaks to the power of visualization.

I still try to live by my travel mantra, so was pleased to meet a fellow Kansas lover, by chance, last summer. After Franklin Thompson's guest post appeared here, on Nov. 14, he asked me to return the favor. See my latest Kansas post on Frank's blog, for today, at http://ftkansasjourney.blogspot.com/2011/11/visiting-abilenes-historic-seelye.html. While you're there, take a look around Frank Thompson's Kansas Journeys for great photos and cool musings.

Frank Thompson Visits Big Basin

2011-11-14T09:08:00.000-06:00

Please join me in welcoming and thanking fellow Kansas blogger, Frank Thompson, who I met by chance in a local coffeeshop last summer. I asked if he would like to write a guest blog post for Crossing Kansas and he happily obliged. You'll find information about Frank's blogs and photography at the bottom of this post. Enjoy!

"When I'm in the prairie ... when the wind blows a soft kind of sound almost like music, I think I hear big orchestras with lots and lots of people playin'... it goes on and one for a long time - comin' and goin' with the wind ..."

- Gordon Parks

I, too, love that wide-open prairie and need regular doses of “big sky” to maintain my equilibrium and personal identity, even if I never hear Parks' big orchestras “comin' and goin' with the wind.”

Few places remain in this hemisphere to experience these grasslands, but we have a couple of them here in Kansas, including the Big Basin Prairie Preserve, a designated National Natural Landmark, located near Ashland in the Red Hills region of south central Kansas.

Big Basin is a circular sinkhole (about a mile across and 100 feet deep) created by the dissolution of underground deposits of salt and gypsum. The Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism manages the 1818 acres of native mixed grass prairie where white-tailed deer, turkeys and a small herd of bison roam freely.

When visiting Big Basin, allow for time to get out of the car and just sit. Experience the absolute, exquisite quiet, broken only by the sound of the wind rippling through the prairie grasses or the occasional lone cottonwood tree. Don't fail to take the short trail down to Jacob's Well, a deep pool of water that has never been known to go dry, and has been an important landmark for plains Indians, settlers, and cowboys driving Texas cattle to Dodge City. The day of our visit to Jacob's Well, two youngsters were passing the day by catching bullfrogs – giants on any scale.

Other regional attractions that you might include in your itinerary are: Medicine Lodge and the Red (Gypsum) Hills, Dodge City, Greensburg, and Mullinville (home to a historic round barn and M.T. Liggett's infamous whirligig sculptures).

Frank Thompson
Photos
Flickr PhotoStream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kansasexplorer3128/
My Portfolio (in progress): http://frankthompsonphotos.500px.com/
Blogs
Kansas Journeys: http://ftkansasjourneys.blogspot.com
Life Journey: http://ftlifejourney.blogspot.com

John Brown Museum State Historic Site - Osawatomie

2011-10-31T20:02:00.000-05:00

John Brown was an organizer and lightning rod for the antislavery movement in Kansas. But his tactics were called into question when he led a massacre effort at Pottawatomie. Whatever his motivation for this heinous act may have been, there's no question that Brown made an indelible mark in development of the Kansas Territory.

Today, visitors can catch a glimpse of a spot from which Brown conducted many antislavery activities - the log cabin owned by the Reverend Samuel and Fiorella Adair - who was Brown's half sister. The cabin also functioned as a station on the Underground Railroad.

Once seriously damaged by fire, the cabin has been completely restored and enclosed by an outer wall, with a narrow corridor between antique logs and protective modern stone shell. Compared to many other log cabins of the time, the Adair's home was quite spacious, with a bedroom downstairs and a sleeping loft for the children.

A spacious kitchen and even a full dining room put this cabin's accommodations head and shoulders above others of the time. And the Adair's front room bordered on luxurious, with a massive stone fireplace and fine furnishings that offered the perfect spot for the Reverend to receive members of his congregation.

One can only hope this tranquil spot also provided Brown with respite as he fought the scourge of slavery.

Sedgwick County Zoo - Wichita

2011-10-25T09:10:00.000-05:00

When our daughters were little and we visited family in Wichita, one of our favorite stops was the Sedgwick County Zoo. The girls are now in their 20s, but I was equally impressed with the zoo during my book research trip to Kansas's largest city. Despite the cool, gray day, plenty of visitors strolled the wide, meandering and well-kept paths with me.

So many animals moved through wide open spaces or were visible through ultra-strong glass walls, creating perfect conditions for unadulterated images such as the massive tiger who relaxed less than a foot away from me, behind glass. This prairie dog was one of many who scampered across another wide enclosed area.

I also appreciated several 'villages' at the zoo, which offered glimpses of manmade surroundings in the animals' native habitats. But the zoo didn't stop with physical structures - the sounds of a lively Asian market surounded me as I walked through one village.

And education was evident everywhere, with attractive informational kiosks scattered liberally throughout the property.

The next time you visit Wichita, set aside a couple of hours to spend at the Sedgwick County Zoo. You'll thoroughly enjoy yourself.

The National Fred Harvey Museum - Leavenworth

2011-10-17T12:14:00.000-05:00

During the late 1800s railway travelers on the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad were indebted to Frederick Henry Harvey, who pioneered well prepared meals served in spotless surroundings across the United States.

Weary travelers no longer had to dine in eating houses and hotels where sanitation practices often fell short; instead they ate on fine china served by the 'Harvey Girls' - signature wait staff for this early restaurant chain. Southwestern Indian arts and crafts also figured prominently in the restaurant decor.

But Harvey's influence extended long beyond his death in 1901; by 1967 the 'Fred Harvey System' extended from the Great Lakes to the Pacific. And Harvey was admitted to the Kansas Business Hall of Fame in 2008.

Leavenworth hosts one of the Harvey family homes, where he lived from 1883 until 1901. After the last family member vacated the residence, it was transferred to the Leavenworth Board of Education in 1949.

A massive renovation is underway, which will restore the mansion to its 1865 grandeur. Visitors will see original parquet floors, lovely transom windows and uncharacteristically large rooms for this time period.

Every detail is receiving a makeover and limited free tours are available (call ahead). There's also a small museum on the property, where you'll find china and other memorabilia from this legendary restaurant phenomenon.

Cypress Bridge - Abilene

2011-10-10T12:57:00.000-05:00

From the moment you reach the entrance of Cypress Bridge, it's clear that this is a classy and cozy store. It's also a huge place, with top-of-the-line kitchenware along one wall, including a rare retail display of items from the Culinary Institute of America. Additional household decor items appear throughout the shop.

At the back counter, visitors can choose from dozens of scents before shop owners create their custom body care products, from massage oil to body lotion.

Customers may also buy scoops full of potpourri, in scents such as Fresh Linen or Warm Sunflowers, for $1.99 per ounce (2010 price).

But this family-owned destination's greatest claim to fame is their hand-poured candles. The scents of their votives and chunky columns have included Lemon Grass, Apple Cinnamon and Eucalyptus Spearmint.

And it's not just retail customers who love Cypress Bridge's huge variety of longlasting candles; their Winter Warmth candles also found their way into gift bags, at the 2005 Billboard Music Awards.

Kansas's Outhouse Festival - Elk Falls

2011-09-19T18:35:00.000-05:00

When you live in a town that has only around 100 residents, finding ways to draw attention to yourselves can be a bit of a challenge. Such is the case in Elk Falls, which has been called by some, 'the 'world's largest living ghost town.'

But, beginning in 1996, this tiny hamlet launched its first Elk Falls Outhouse Festival. About a dozen creative types decorated individual outhouses, which were strategically placed throughout the town. Bright colors and whimsical appendages are just a few design features of these fun structures.

When was the last time that you saw an outhouse shell mounted on a bicycle?

An outhouse with all the charm of a Victorian painted lady home?

Or an outhouse interior complete with hand thrown pottery sink, wallpaper border and a Roman shade?

And you know there's a tech-savvy resident designer, when an outhouse christened Facepot features text-filled walls that bear a striking similarity to a popular online networking site. Will there be Elk Falls Outhouse Festivals in the future? Check the link above.

While you're in Elk Falls be sure to visit several more 'permanent' Elk Falls destinations. See the gorgeous Elk Falls and an 1892 iron bridge, near the edge of town. Or stop by Elk Falls Pottery, where Steve and Jane Fry have crafted stunning ceramics since 1976. The Frys will also welcome you to their cozy and serene Sherman House Bed and Breakfast. Your first meal of your day may feature a Wild West Breakfast Burrito, or Homemade French Toast with strawberry cream cheese filling.

This living ghost town offers plenty of surprises. Enjoy your visit!

Kansas's Little Sweden

2011-09-12T18:54:00.006-05:00

Lindsborg, Kansas - 'Little Sweden' - transports visitors to another land. This vibrant little town of less than 4,000 people presents the best of Swedish culture through its architecture, hand crafts, specialty food items, and iconic symbols.
World chess champion, Anatoly Karpov, offers a chess school here. Mikhail Gorbachev grabbed a bite at Ol Stuga, a great place for a beer, a sandwich and even a game of cribbage. A full-sized carved wooden Viking decorates the high school hallway and a bright yellow Swedish pavilion, from the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, anchors Old Mill Complex Heritage Center.

A larger-than-life Swedish maiden offers tea to passersby, near Hemslojd, Inc., a spacious emporium full of Swedish gifts and food. There's even a painter onsite who can personalize a small traditional Dala horse.

And clog lovers will rejoice over the variety available at Clogs 'n' Such/Dala Clogs.

Or purchase gourmet Swedish food items - and much more - at Anderson Butik, operating for more than 40 years.

Many local restaurants follow the trend, too, offering Swedish meatballs and pickled herring for breakfast, Smorgas Open-Faced Sandwiches and Swedish pancakes with lingonberries for dinner, or fresh kringle for a snack.
One day in Lindsborg and you'll understand a true Swedish 'Valkommen' (welcome).

St. Benedict's Grand Surprise - St. Mary's Church

2011-09-05T22:30:00.000-05:00

I've never visited the grand churches of Europe, but I've seen many photographs over the years. Little did I know that I'd catch a glimmer of their magnificence in a 150-year-old sanctuary and a barely-there town located outside of Seneca, Kansas. From the moment I entered on a chilly, blustery afternoon, the stone building that is St. Mary's Church took my breath away,

Named one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Art by the Kansas Sampler Foundation, the church was founded even before the Kansas Territory became a state. The first wood frame church building took shape in 1859. By 1880, St. Mary's Parish had outgrown the church - twice. Finally, in 1891, the growing parish had laid the foundation for a much larger fourth church, crafted from native limestone.

More than 150 years later, this stunning house of worship has long held a place on the Kansas Register of Historic Places and the National Register of Historic Places. The Catholic church is full of exquisite architectural detail, from hand-painted figures of angels and Jesus, to soaring ceiling arches.

The sanctuary underwent major renovation and received a new main altar, in 1899, followed by the addition of two gilded side altars the following year.

In 1901 artist, G.F. Satory added decorative flourishes throughout the room, using stencils and highly detailed painted designs. Td. Zukotynski, a Russian-born artist, added 14 oil paintings to the sanctuary. Improvements continued through the early 1900s, with major restoration work during the 1940s.

Today, this rural church remains a vibrant testament to the faith and dedication of its parishioners.

Waxman Candles - Lawrence

2011-08-29T12:27:00.000-05:00

Candle lovers could easily spend several hours in Waxman Candles. Not only does this iconic store on Massachusetts Street offer an astonishing array of candles, but they're also smokeless and dripless, with many hours of burn time. Want to get a whiff of Asia or the 'Holidaze'? Purchase a candle that's packaged in a lightweight tin container.

Love cinnamon rolls but hate the calories? Buy a candle that looks so good you could almost eat it.

Take a trip to the Southwest as a stubby column candle decorated with saguaro cacti burns bright on your table; or travel to the tropics with a substantial, round, palm-festooned orb.

Waxman Candles also stocks an enormous variety of rounded and squared column candles that will create a dramatic effect while standing several feet tall on

any dining or buffet table.

If you're lucky you'll get to talk with Waxman Candles founder, Bob Werts, during your visit. More than 30 years after Werts began his business, he still inhabits his original location with all the enthusiasm of a kid in a candy store.

Isn't there some conventional wisdom that says, "If you love what you do you'll never work a day in your life?"

Waxman Candles also has a store in Chicago and sells through its web site.

Prairiewood Retreat and Preserve

2011-08-22T19:47:00.000-05:00

It takes a GPS or good written directions to find Prairiewood Retreat and Preserve, on the outskirts of Manhattan. Gravel and dirt roads traverse through a heavily treed landscape until the preserve becomes visible, beyond a renovated barn and atop a hill that offers breathtaking views of Kansas's native tallgrass prairie. The journey is worth the destination.

Enter a genteel country estate, full of broad windows, gorgeous upholstery, sumptuous leather,

and even a baby grand player piano. Calm and soothing characterize this retreat center from the moment you enter.

Amenities abound throughout beautiful bedrooms full of pillows and antique furnishings, and bathrooms with rich wood cabinetry and neutral-tone tile. This retreat feels more like a spacious personal home than a spot for small corporate gatherings. Then again, it's also a perfect place to host a family reunion or girlfriends getaway.

There's a huge, modern kitchen with every imaginable convenience, and a state-of-the-art business meeting room, including a flat screen television. And beyond these walls lies a stunning natural panorama, where short hikes lead to wildflower-strewn hilltops,

mirror-still ponds and breathtaking sunsets.

This is the very definition of retreat.

The Stiefel Theatre's Unexpected Patron

2011-08-08T13:30:00.001-05:00

One of my favorite places to visit during my Kansas travels was restored vintage theaters. After introducing myself in the front office of The Stiefel Theatre for the Performing Arts, Salina, I asked if I could take photographs of the 1931 auditorium.

Re-opened for individual performances since 2003, the auditorium was full of meticulously carved wood and painted decor featured intricate, flawlessly replicated designs. Gold leaf detail, with lush chairs and carpeting created a stunning entertainment environment.

But performers at today's Stiefel are quite different from the early 1900s, when the theater was best known as a quintessential 'movie house' called the Fox-Watson Theater. Nowadays, artists such as Peter Frampton, the Salina Symphony, the Celtic Tenors and comedian, Ron White fill the theater with music and laughter.

Sometimes the patrons can be a little surprising too. After taking half a dozen photographs in the auditorium, I returned to the office and looked at my images. A distinct orb of light appeared to the right of one balcony, which I hadn't seen as I took the shot.

I asked if the theater had any ghosts and was told it did. I returned to the auditorium but couldn't find a light source to explain the orb - and neither could a gal from the office. It seems that I wasn't the only visitor to The Stiefel on that sunny summer morning.

A Stunning Kansas Sunset

2011-07-26T11:44:00.000-05:00

A long gravel country road leads to The Bunkhouse Bed & Breakfast at Wildfire Ranch, a property that offers log cabins filled with every modern amenity - from fully equipped kitchens to free WiFi. The ranch also offers spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding rural countryside.

Perhaps at no time are the views more spectacular than as a storm develops near sunset. Within only 1/2 an hour, the sky changes from bright and sun-kissed to deep gray and threatening.

But, as with much Kansas weather, seeing a storm doesn't necessarily mean that rain will drum upon your rooftop and lightning will split the sky before morning arrives.

Although this storm passed by and the ground remained parched, I'll never forget that ever-changing vista.

Sipping in Salina

2011-07-18T21:06:00.000-05:00

The drive to Smoky Hill Vineyards and Winery, in Salina, takes visitors to a rural setting located near the spot where I-70 and I-135 intersect. It's on Golf Link Road-although there isn't a hint of a Golf Course anywhere nearby. A gravel road leads up a gentle hill to the tasting room and wine shop, past dozens of grape vines.

The state's largest grape-producing winery creates more than two dozen wines. It's a great place to sip your favorite, on the spacious deck or inside the comfortable tasting room. It's also a lovely spot for a summer or fall stroll through the vineyards, when they are lush with fruit.

Smoky Hill Vineyards and Winery grows its grapes across 20 acres in the Salina area and then creates award-winning red, white and fruit wines, plus a couple of lovely ports. In fact, the winery received Silver Medals for its River Valley Red - Sweet Lady - 2006 Norton; River Valley Red; and 2006 Norton, at The Grand Harvest Awards. The international wine competition held in Santa Rosa, CA, featured upwards of 1,700 wines from throughout the world.

Good wine and a beautiful setting make this a 'must visit' spot the next time you're in Salina.

The Sweet Granada - Emporia

2011-07-11T12:43:00.000-05:00

Okay, I admit it - I've got quite the sweet tooth, particularly for anything chocolate. I found a great place to satisfy my craving at The Sweet Granada, in Emporia. From the moment customers enter this little chocolate destination with an old-fashioned vibe, the owners' enthusiasm is contagious.

The shop represents a passion shared by the mother-daughter team of Toni Bowling and Kim Redekker, who studied chocolate making for a year before they plunged into their new careers.

Located beside the stunningly renovated and historic Emporia Granada Theatre, Sweet Granada offers luscious fudge, and enormous hand-dipped strawberries, in season. There are a dozen varieties of truffles - from amaretto to German chocolate fillings - plus dark chocolate nut clusters, and much more.

Find your favorite and then ask Toni or Kim to ship some more, for your next special occasion.

Releasing a Book, Part II

2011-06-27T21:38:00.000-05:00

Have you ever worked at a project that develops a life of its own? Since I received my first copies of An Explorer's Guide: Kansas, there seems to be endless positive energy infusing the process of marketing and selling this book.

Lisa and her husband, Mark

After all of those days away and weeks at the computer, there's a new level of surreal to the whole project. Did I really see all of those places, talk to all of those people, take all of those photographs and write all of those words?

Lisa with longtime friends, Ellen Henry and Jessa Huebing-Reitinger

Celebrations like this are always better when people that you love share it with you :)

But I also thoroughly enjoyed sitting in a room with more than 30 other authors, at Town Crier bookstore in Emporia, Kan., on June 18th; and then selling books while sipping wine the following day and on June 26, at Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery, in Somerset.

Books sold since May 29, from cases I've purchased: 46
Books sold from Town Crier's inventory: 6 in two hours
Books sold from Somerset's inventory: 6-7 in two hours

Let the good times roll!

An Explorer's Guide: Book Release Party

2011-06-14T06:39:00.000-05:00

Your first national book is something to smile about - and a good reason to celebrate. So the release of An Explorer's Guide: Kansas required a great party. We met last week on a balmy Friday evening, at the lovely The Tasteful Olive, in downtown Overland Park, KS, where I work part time.

About 20-25 people enjoyed Kansas wine from Somerset Ridge Vineyard and Winery plus loads of homemade hors d'oeuvres and desserts. And, of course, plenty of books went out the door with the guests. What a great kickoff!

Upcoming events include:

Multi-authors' event at Town Crier bookstore, Emporia, KS, Sat., June 18
Book signing at Somerset Ridge Vineyard and Winery, Somerset, KS, Sun. June 19

with more in the works!

The Birth of a Book

2011-06-05T21:22:00.000-05:00

June 5, 2011 - An Explorer's Guide: Kansas is finally in full release, tomorrow! It's been available for pre-order, through online catalogues for Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and Borders, for at least a month but today it arrives on bookstore shelves.

The final book has 400+ pages that reflect:
        - more than 13,000 solo road miles
        - upwards of 100 nights on the road
        - more than 4,000 photos taken
        - outrunning a tornado in south central Kansas
        - watching at least 100 buffalo following our pickup truck
        - capturing a ghostly orb on film, at a renovated vintage theater
        - visiting a high school straight out of Harry Potter
        - traveling the last 13 miles of Route 66 that remain in Kansas
        - walking a real Yellow Brick Road
        - viewing Colorado from the highest point in the state
        - seeing one of the nation's largest wetlands and bird habitats
        - watching a beautifully orchestrated prairie burn
        - eating my way through the Kansas State Fair
        - and much, much more...

So now I share this journey with everyone through An Explorer's Guide: Kansas - and this blog. I hope that you will also share your own journeys across this surprising and engaging state with other readers. There really IS no place like Kansas!!

Green Chile and Gratitude

2011-02-02T16:45:00.000-06:00

When Brian Befort and his wife, Angela, left Colorado to visit her family in Osborne, Kan., Brian brought his signature green chile. It was such a hit that family members and friends insisted he bring it on all future visits. The Beforts eventually moved to Osborne and opened a restaurant with Brian’s green chile featured in several dishes on the menu. Before long, Circle Inn Restaurant had become a local favorite.

Little did they know the depth of their adopted community’s support. After a massive fire virtually destroyed the restaurant, dozens of community members – many with little or no construction experience – helped the couple to re-build. Brian was astounded; he hadn’t experienced this kind of community spirit in larger towns. When the restaurant re-opened, Brian’s green chile returned.

On the day that an F-5 tornado leveled much of Greensburg, Kan., in 2007, a twister also touched down in Osborne. A huge portion of Circle Inn Restaurant was destroyed but, fortunately, without any injuries to staff or patrons. The Beforts weren’t sure if they wanted to rebuild yet, once again, the community rallied around them. And, once again, Brian made his green chile for appreciative friends and neighbors.

Today, the Circle Inn Restaurant is a bright and airy place with seating for more than 60 people. Folks come for breakfast, lunch and early dinner and book private parties there too. Brian’s green chile remains a restaurant staple, and a testament to the neighborly spirit of Osborne, Kan.

A Colorful Vision

2011-02-01T11:11:00.000-06:00

Alma Alsop thought that the massive panels of clear glass above the entryway at United Methodist Church looked very cold. So, in 1991, the Phillipsburg, Kan. woman launched a plan to create a one-of-a-kind stained glass window that would replace it. The 17-by-17-foot work of art was dedicated six years later. Since that time, the ‘Resurrection Stained Glass Window’ has become a destination sight for visitors to this small northern Kansas town.

Looking nowhere near her 102 years of age, Alsop still lives in a local senior center (as of summer 2010) and speaks fondly of the breathtaking window. “I found an artist and I thought the tallest piece of the window should be Christ. I inherited [some] money and then I picked a design that I wanted. I asked people to donate money to the window as memorials.”

A life-sized figure of Christ, portrayed in the central glass panel, was installed in January 1992, with funding from Alsop. After a couple of years church members and groups within the church community made additional large and small contributions and the complete work started to take shape, panel by panel.

By the time that artist, Stan Detrixhe, had finished the multi-year project, it featured 250 square feet of glass weighing 504 pounds. He had placed 1,100 pieces of glass in the space, employing 150 different colors and textures over 2,400 man-hours, at a cost of $25,412.

“I didn’t think it would be done until after I was gone,” Alsop says. “I was so pleased that I lived to see it.”

Mission Road Antique Mall - Prairie Village

2010-05-25T20:51:00.000-05:00

Open seven days a week from 10-6, this upscale antiques mall began to recycle gently used treasures in 1994. A mind-boggling 350 carefully vetted dealers offer their wares amidst 50,000 square feet, on two floors. Buy your mom an antique necklace or find the perfect mirror for your foyer. The quality is bound to impress any visitor.

Wrought iron wall decor, vintage jewelry, antlers and even carved American Indian kachina dolls are available here. If you're looking for something specific, you could easily spend a couple of days looking through thousands of unusual items - all tastefully and artfully displayed, with good lighting and loads of walking space.

If you need a break while mulling over a purchase, stop by Bloomsbury Bistro for made-from-scratch Cream of Asparagus Soup, Chicken Blue Lettuce Wraps (with blue cheese, apples, walnuts and Dijon dressing in butter lettuce), Roasted Salmon Salad or daily quiche. Try an unusual housemade vinaigrette, such as orange-pomegranate or pear-shallot. And save room for a slice of toasted carrot cake or lemon cake with pistachio icing.

Colbert Hills Golf Course in Manhattan

2010-04-29T19:10:00.000-05:00

I had been told that I absolutely had to see the views at Colbert Hills Golf Course, so headed out to the 18-hole course early on my second morning in the Manhattan area. This course isn't just a Manhattan favorite - Golf Digest has ranked Colbert Hills as the sixth-best course, overall, in the state.

"I've heard that I've got to see the views from here," I said when I reached the pro shop. "The best view is from the 7th hole," the pro said. "You'll have to take a golf cart out there."

I gulped nervously - I'd never driven a golf cart before. "Maybe I should walk out there," I said. "That's about seven miles," he said. I gulped again as he handed me the keys.

But he was so right - about the distance and the need to use a cart. I drove along rolling hill after tall rolling hill, jaw agape as I looked at native prairie grass areas between spectacular pale green, early-spring fairways and million-dollar homes that ringed the perimeter. What a gorgeous place to play the sport!

About 45 minutes later, I regretfully handed over the keys and then entered the clubhouse dining area. The quiet, calm space featured tall limestone columns, with hardwood floors and sleek wicker and wood furnishings.

Although golf is the main reason for most people to visit Colbert Hills Golf Course, the views are always spectacular - inside and out.

The Gordon Parks Center for Culture and Diversity

2010-04-19T06:44:00.000-05:00

Gordon Parks was a photographer, film maker, writer, poet and composer who grew up in Fort Scott during a time when segregation continued to mark daily life in the small town. As his reputation grew in the nation's arts community, Parks met and gradually befriended then-mayor, Ken Lunt, and learned that, with time, attitudes about race had softened.

More importantly, Lunt wanted the city's new Mercy Health Center to house a gallery of Parks' photography. Today, that collection features 52 images donated by Parks. Valued at $380,000, it is the largest permanent display of his photography - and poetry - in the nation, after the Library of Congress.

Nearby, The Gordon Parks Center for Culture and Diversity operates at the Danny and Willa Ellis Fine Art Center, at Fort Scott Community College.

Upon Parks' death, the center received 25 boxes of memorabilia from his estate, including his entire collection of Life magazines, plus clippings, magazine articles, videotapes and 30 museum-quality photos from this multi-talented native son.

William 'Bill' Cosby and his wife, Camilla also donated $5,000, which allowed the center to acquire and ship Parks' desk from his New York City office.

This one-of-a-kind exhibit has launched a $500,000 capital campaign in order to create a highly interactive site for future visitors; hopefully by 2011. It is currently open Monday through Friday, during the academic year, or on weekends for special tours.

The National Fred Harvey Museum

2010-04-13T13:58:00.000-05:00

Between 1883 and 1901, Frederick Henry Harvey lived in a Leavenworth home at 624 Olive St., which is currently undergoing massive renovation, including this ornate medallion that will decorate the interior. His family remained in the home until 1943, followed by its transfer to the Leavenworth Board of Education in 1949.

Harvey is known as the pioneer of offering well-prepared meals to rail travelers, amidst beautiful surroundings that included the Harvey Girls, who served in his restaurant chain located along the routes of the Santa Fe Railroad. In addition, his restaurants and hotels showcased Southwest indian arts and crafts.

The first Harvey House Restaurant opened at the Topeka Santa Fe Depot, in 1876. At the time of Harvey's death, in 1901, 47 Harvey House restaurants, 15 hotels, and 30 dining cars on the AT&SF Railroad were operating.

The National Fred Harvey Museum will open for tours following a five-year renovation that returns this home to its 1865 grandeur (limited tours may be available now, if you call ahead). Visitors will see original parquet floors and intact transoms plus unusually large rooms for the time period, and maid's and butler's quarters. Restorationists hope to furnish the entire home with items from the Harvey family, the Fred Harvey Company, and the Santa Fe Railroad.

In the carriage house, there are multiple varieties of china used by the Harvey restaurant chain, a plaque that recognizes Fred Harvey as a restaurant owner and entrepreneur Admitted to the Kansas Business Hall of Fame, and other memorabilia.

The National Fred Harvey Museum, in Leavenworth, is the only one that living descendants of Fred Harvey have formally recognized - a fitting tribute to a legendary personality who utterly revolutionized railroad travel.

Rosedale Memorial Arch Commemorates Local Veterans

2010-04-01T21:25:00.000-05:00

The first inkling you'll have that the Rosedale Memorial Arch sits nearby, in Kansas City, Kansas, is the highway sign. Once you reach Southwest Boulevard, you'll turn south and travel up a steep hillside to an almost hidden entry for the park. When you reach the top, an amazing view unfolds. It begins with the memorial itself, a minature replica of France's Arc de Triomphe that was based on sketches by a young World War I soldier named John Leroy Marshall.

How did this happen? The Rosedale neighborhood was once its own small municipality. When local veterans returned from the war, the city of Rosedale decided to commemorate their service in the form of this stunning monument - and used Marshall's sketches. After Rosedale merged with Kansas City, Kansas, KCK honored the old city's plan.

Sixty-five years later, the Rosedale Development Association - a local neighborhood and business group - raised more than $30,000 for a massive restoration project. Through their city councilman, Kansas City, Kansas donated $20,000. A professional restoration company cleaned and made repairs to the structure; a local ironworks manufacturer donated a tall, wrought iron fence to protect the Arch from vandalism; and a local cement company donated materials and labor to rebuild cement platforms that surrounded the Arch.

In subsequent years, reliable spotlights, street lights placed along the curving driveway, and a flagpole, were added to the site. Finally, in 1993, the city added a monument beneath the Arch designed to honor soldiers who fought in World War II, and the Korean and Vietnam wars.

For a trip to Paris without the plane fare, visit the Rosedale Memorial Arch. It's open around the clock and free of charge.

Please note: I assisted in raising funds to help restore this monument during the late '80s.

Dodge City's Boot Hill & Front Street

2010-03-25T16:26:00.000-05:00

Sandie Masden, from the Dodge City Convention and Visitors Bureau, treated me to a visit at Boot Hill and Front Street, the legendary center of Dodge's western frontier culture. One of my favorite stops was the Long Branch Saloon, where period performances such as can can dancers take place, from Memorial Day weekend to mid-August. It's also where we took some long, cool draws on bottles of old-fashioned sarsaparilla.

Behind the Front Street facades, we visited Beatty and Kelly Restaurant too, an eatery that's known for the ice cream, and buffalo sandwiches that it serves during the summer months. Boot Hill houses the Cowboy Hall of Fame, where photos from five award categories mingle, including Cowboy Historian, Cowboy Entertainer, Rodeo Cowboy, Working Cowboy and Rancher Cattleman.

Boot Hill Museum is a gorgeous testament to Dodge City's history, from railroad memorabilia and displays about Native American culture, to a video about buffalo during which the floor rumbles as they stampede. There's also a display about Dodge City - The Movie, with photos of the Big Fight Scene, the movie cast, leading man, Errol Flynn, and the star dinner party that included renowned actors, Humphrey Bogart and John Payne.

Then there's the display of common firearms from Dodge City's heydey, when Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson and Bill Tilghman inhabited this 'Wild West' town; and a Victorian room full of period clothing and furniture. On the adjacent hillside, we visited Boot Hill Cemetery, which was known as a final resting place for drifters and ne'er-do-wells.

Our trip to Boot Hill and Front Street provided great background information for my remaining tour of Dodge City.

Topeka High School

2010-03-19T08:57:00.000-05:00

I saw the stunning Gothic tower from several blocks away. Could this possibly be Topeka High School? Yup - there was a huge sign at the corner that confirmed it. As I opened my car door and prepared to cross the street, a melody rang from the bell tower. My job dropped before I saw a single room of the building.

But then my tour began with a member of the Topeka Historical Society whose office is in the school beside the art gallery. Imagine eating lunch amidst dark, heavy ceiling beams, Gothic-style chandeliers, leaded glass windows and dozens of flags.

Or attending a school assembly in an auditorium that seats every student and has been lovingly restored to its 1931 grandeur.

Or studying in a library that rivals those of Harry Potter fame - with a mammoth fireplace, stained glass, stucco balconies and handcarved woodwork in every direction. "We hope that these surroundings inspire our students," said my tour guide.

But Topeka residents aren't the only ones who have recognized the gem of a building that their high school students inhabit. As far back as Oct. 1957, Time and Newsweek determined that 'T.H.S.' was one of the 38 finest schools in the United States - while most others on the list operated in larger cities or wealthier suburbs.

Massive upgrades took place near the turn of the century, which included air conditioning, renovation and re-upholstery in the auditorium, period lighting installed near several entrances, and installation of new flagpoles and a Constitution Plaza. On June 9, 2005, T.H.S. was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

I have no doubt the Topeka High School building inspires many of its students. It certainly inspired me.

PHOTOS BY LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Moore Ranch in Bucklin

2010-03-15T13:54:00.000-05:00

When Joe and Nancy Moore married and then purchased ranch land located approximately 40 miles southeast of Dodge City, the couple were simply doing what came naturally. Nancy grew up on a farm and Joe grew up with his family's herd of Texas longhorns. Today, the Moores - including their son, Laramie - typically maintain about 300 longhorns and 50 horses at any one time, on their 1,400-acre Moore Ranch, in Bucklin. Laramie also raises chickens and sells eggs.

During my brief visit to Moore Ranch Nancy drove me in her pickup truck, from the house to the heart of the longhorn herd. I safely took photographs outside of the truck, as one particularly friendly longhorn greeted Nancy enthusiastically and she scratched his head. "If there's enough wildlife here, then I'm doing a good job with the land," Nancy said as she breathed deeply and surveyed the family property.

But Moore Ranch is more than a traditional family ranch. Since 1998, the Moores have hosted guests between April and October, who participate in three-day cattle drives and camping under the stars, mend fences, rope calves, brand longhorns, and monitor the range on horseback. Although visitors stay in their own small 1950s-era cabins while they're on the ranch, everyone shares family-style meals with the Moores around their kitchen table or at a nearby picnic table.

There are no T.V.s in the cabins and cell phone coverage is spotty, at best, allowing guests to enjoy a true ranch experience without technological interruptions. Nancy doesn't recall any complaints either. Within a day or two, guests thoroughly immerse themselves in ranch life - a true getaway from their daily routines and the stuff of incomparable memories.

Monument Rocks - Kansas' Natural Stonehenge

2010-03-06T19:11:00.000-06:00

As you drive through western Kansas, near the Colorado border, the landscape offers some wonderful surprises. Such is the case with Monument Rocks National Landmark/Chalk Pyramids. Follow I-70 West until you see a sign for Highway 83 and then head south towards Oakley, in Gove County.

Travel south through town and look for a brown landmark sign with cream lettering, on the east side of the road. Then get ready for a bumpy 7-mile ride along a dirt and gravel strewn road - and a truly breathtaking sight.

At several miles along the road, you'll catch your first glimpse of massive stone structures that rise more than 70 feet above the otherwise-flat landscape. On a sunny day, with bright blue skies, it's a truly stunning view. Monument Rocks represents the last vestiges of an inland sea that covered much of western Kansas and eastern Colorado 200 million years ago.

The first National Natural Landmark designated by the United States Department of the Interior, and one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas, Monument Rocks were likely formed about 80 million years ago, after the sea receded and wind and other natural elements shaped these hauntingly beautiful structures; made all the more haunting when you're the only person driving through the site.

A trip to the heart of this monument takes 20-30 minutes, depending on your vehicle's road clearance, but perhaps that's a good thing. When you're driving slowly there's more time to marvel at this 'natural Stonehenge.'

Return to the highway the way you came, or continue south and east for another half hour through gently rolling hills, where cows moo as they cross the road before you and a hawk soars on invisible air currents. Then breathe a sigh of relief that the unmarked road has finally led you back to Highway 83.

PHOTOS BY LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Winfield's Walnut Valley Festival

2010-02-26T16:07:00.000-06:00

As soon as we reached Winfield, Kansas, Gloria and I began to look for signs pointing towards the multi-day annual music extravaganza that we only knew as 'Winfield.' When we didn't see a single directional sign, I pulled into a gas station and asked how to get there. As it turned out, we were only blocks away from what we soon learned is actually called the Walnut Valley Festival.

From the moment we reached the event site, this festival impressed us enormously. Dozens of state and international flags flew near the entrance where volunteers directed us to parking. Hundreds of RVs and tents surrounded the event perimeter, and dozens of food vendors offered everything from deep fried catfish, shrimp, okra and pickles to homemade apple dumplings, and Indian tacos. Gloria and I indulged in enormous Gyros platters provided by a vendor who had come all the way from Chicago to participate.

As we ate beside Stage III, we savored a perfect fall day, with gorgeous blue skies, 70-something temperatures, and a cool breeze - accompanied by music, music and more music. On this Thursday afternoon, the mood was mellow, with listeners who also read novels, crocheted and even snoozed a bit. Performers played electrified acoustic guitar, an autoharp, hammered dulcimer duets, and traditional fiddle tunes.

We took a brief trip through the retail area where dozens of tie-dyed shirts and dresses, and a massive display of sheet music, particularly caught our eye. For this event is about far more than professional performances. Multiple festival, national, and even international competitions offer 'amateurs' the opportunity to show their stuff before audiences - many of whom live and breathe this music - and win prizes such as top-of-the-line guitars.

Gloria and I had one day to sample the 38th Annual Walnut Valley Festival - just enough time to know that we'd return as soon as possible.

Nerman Museum of Contemporary Art

2010-02-19T20:56:00.000-06:00

There's a beautiful surprise at Johnson County Community College in Overland Park. The 41,000-square-foot Nerman Museum of Contemporary Art is the largest contemporary art museum in the four-state region. It features a Kansas-limestone-clad exterior and nine galleries that host permanent pieces and temporary exhibitions. Polished blond wood floors and neutral walls provide an understated backdrop for this impressive display.

The Museum/JCCC Permanent Collection includes artistic pieces from the late 20th century and early 21st century.The Oppenheimer Collection at the Nerman reflects a generous donation by Marti and Tony Oppenheimer that was collected over the course of a decade.

NewNow acquisitions include painting, photography, sculpture, clay, textiles, glass and works on paper.

But there's more to the Nerman than beautiful artwork. Visitors also can enjoy breakfast or lunch at Café Tempo (reservations requested for parties of six or more) and The Museum Store offers a wide array of gifts, from handmade Indian pottery to coffee table art books.

Enjoy a tour of contemporary art amidst gorgeous, modern architecture - and end your visit with stuffed french toast, an espresso or a healthy soup.

PHOTOS BY LISA WATERMAN GRAY

Louisburg Cider Mill Annual Ciderfest

2010-02-12T18:05:00.000-06:00

Every fall, on the last weekend in September and the first in October, the Louisburg Cider Mill holds its Annual Ciderfest. When the weather is good - as it was last fall - the mill, gift shop and grounds are absolutely packed with visitors.

Of course, freshly pressed cider was a primary draw and visitors could watch how apples were processed, from initial washing to the press. You could buy a cup of fresh hot or cold cider, munch on a cider doughnut, try a freshly dipped caramel apple, or sample a Lost Trail Root Beer - another product that Louisburg Cider Mill has become famous for.

Live music had a country flare, there was plenty of homemade kettle corn and fried pickles, and dozens of booths sold everything from belly dancing clothes to candles and wrought iron yard decor.

For a small fee, kids of all ages could hitch haywagon rides out to the Pumpkin Patch and the 10-acre Corn Maze, pick a pumpkin, visit with farm animals, catch fish, and take a look at the Straw Castle. Back near the barn, a moonwalk hosted steady streams of little people.

For a true taste of fall, this festival can't be beat. Prepare your taste buds for multiple treats and get ready for a crush of people. After all, what successful festival doesn't draw a big crowd?

Caboose Quarters in Pratt

2010-02-04T21:37:00.000-06:00

Learn all about last week's photo quiz image

When somebody else makes your lodging reservations, there's an occasional unexpected bonus. I planned to spend one night in Pratt on my way to the state's western corner and my contact in town said he would make a reservation for me at the Evergreen Inn Motel and RV Park. Then came the surprise. "They have a caboose you can stay in, if you want," he said. "It's totally restored."

I jumped at the chance to enjoy these highly unusual accommodations, and was thrilled by what I found. I parked beside the brightly painted caboose, which sat behind the motel and next to the RV park. Inside, a pedestal sink stood snugly in a corner near the narrow, custom-built shower and across the tiny room from a twin bed.

In the main room (see top photo), I found a comfortable full-sized bed, a flat screen TV, a small refrigerator and a microwave. The lavatory hid behind a metal door, just below a conductor seat positioned near upper level windows. Images of railroad signs covered curtains throughout the caboose.

There was only one small downside - reaching an ice machine required pulling on my coat and walking to the far end of the building. But that was a small price to pay for a truly memorable night's stay.

Liberal's Mid-America Air Museum

2010-01-28T19:31:00.000-06:00

Learn all about last week's photo quiz image

To enter the Mid-America Air Museum in Liberal is to experience utter amazement over the massive scope of this unusual museum. There's a MASH helicopter, reminiscent of those from the renowned TV show.

A replica of the plane that crash landed after take-off from Clear Lake, Iowa, and ended the lives of Boddy Holly, Ritchie Valens, J.P. Richardson - 'The Big Bopper,' and their pilot, Roger Peterson, sits nearby, in its red-and-white-painted glory. Near the rear of the building, there's an area specifically designated for plane restoration efforts.

Visitors can view more than 100 full-sized planes under one roof - the fifth largest such collection in the entire country. Unbeknownst to many visitors, one third of all airplanes produced, world-wide, come from the state of Kansas. Other aircraft on display inside the museum include a homemade aerobatic plane powered by a modified Volkswagen engine and a display about U.S. space flight.

Several fighter jets also rest outside, on an enormous, wind-swept cement 'parking lot.' But there's more to this museum than full-sized aircraft. Model airplanes duplicate Korean War Bombers, a hand-sewn quilt commemorates World War II, and a display describes how flight affects each passenger's respiratory system.

Allow a couple of hours to view a video that describes Kansas' role in the aviation industry and marvel at this priceless collection, largely from a single individual - Colonel Tom Thomas, Jr., who donated more than 50 planes to the museum. It's a 'don't miss' sight and site in this southwest Kansas town.

Moon Marble Company - Bonner Springs

2010-01-21T19:34:00.000-06:00

When the wooden toys and game boards that you love to make and sell require hard-to-find marbles, what can you do? At Moon Marble Company, in Bonner Springs, business partners, Bruce Breslow and Lynda Sproules stock and sell marbles too. The store opened in 1997.

Today, it would be easy to get lost at Moon Marble Company, which is jam-packed with marbles and toys for children of all ages. Hundreds of marble varieties fill several rooms almost from floor to ceiling. Customers can purchase marbles one-at-a-time, or by the pound, from PeeWees to 'Toebreakers' and custom-crafted marbles. You also can take a trip down memory lane while checking out the store's dizzying array of old-fashioned toys, such as jumbo jacks, pick up sticks, wooden YoYos, and vintage slinkies.

A consummate performer and educator, Breslow delights visitors as he demonstrates how to make individual marbles on several afternoons of most weeks. His designs are only limited by his imagination, from one called a Christmas Spiral to Moons and Stars and Radioactive Lizard Eye. Each handcrafted marble features Breslow's signature and the date when he created it. Moon Marble Company also carries custom marbles crafted by other artisans and offers occasional daylong classes of six to eight students, through its School of Glass.

On March 5th and 6th, the store will host its 10th Annual "Marble Crazy" event, with glass demonstrations offered by multiple artists, the opportunity to purchase custom-crafted marbles directly from their creators, and a chance to see the "Marble Machine." Want to know what that is? Stop by for a visit and unleash your inner kid. You'll have a blast.

Greensburg's Re-Birth

2010-01-15T06:39:00.000-06:00

I arrived in Greensburg on a September day of brilliant blue skies and strong wind and marveled that an F-5 tornado had destroyed much of the town two years earlier. From the moment I arrived, the residents' hope and determination was palpable. New construction was underway all along the town's main street, while this building from 1915 looked like one of only a few that remained from the downtown's the original landscape.

Much of Greensburg's re-building has a 'green' focus, with Greensburg GreenTown at the forefront. The nonprofit 5.4.7 Arts Center employs solar panels, and geothermal heating and cooling, plus tempered glass, reclaimed wood siding, skylights and a 'green roof.' Crafted by architectural graduate students from the University of Kansas School of Architecture and Urban Planning's Studio 804 program, it received a challenging LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Platinum rating.

The Sun Chips Business Incubator is another LEED Platinum building that employs skylights, solar panels, a heat pump, and a graywater system among other environmental features. Small businesses can get themselves established here before venturing out on their own. In September, one of these was Studio 54 Glass Art Studio and Gallery, which offered gift items and household decor, including paperweights that featured tornado debris and bits of recycled glass.

By the time Greensburg residents have totally restored their town, they'll clearly exemplify its new motto, Greensburg: Better, Stronger, Greener!

Smith's Market - Hutchinson

2010-01-08T13:01:00.000-06:00

During 2009, Smith's Market, in Hutchinson celebrated 76 years of operation. A giant mural on the back wall gives a pictorial 'history' of this legendary store, which prides itself on its fresh fruit and produce. But Smith's offers far more then fruits and vegetables, amidst the 'antique' surroundings.

Purchase homemade noodles, made fresh every week, with no preservatives or packets of chicken seasoning without any MSG.

You'll also find Meyers household and cleaning products, all natural and highly concentrated; or Farm Baby products for the little ones in your life.

Add traditonal grocery items, gift baskets and loads of Kansas-made products. This is one place that will bring you back again and again, as much for the homey, family-run environment as for the products you buy.

Pancakes in Liberal

2010-01-08T12:25:00.000-06:00

(also, see this photo reprinted, with permission, at http://www.motel.com/blog/242/racing-with-pancakes-in-kansas/)

A mural painted on the outside of the City Hall, in Liberal, depicts two women running down opposite roads that meet at a 'Y,' as they each carry a skillet. Painted by renowned muralist, Stan Herd, it is a daily reminder of an annual event that has occurred here for more than 60 years.

International Pancake Day began when Liberal residents challenged residents of Olney, England, at a race that first took place there in 1445. An Olney woman, who was using up the last cooking fat in her house before Lent began (use of the fat was prohibited during the Lenten season), scurried out of her kitchen with skillet and pancake in hand so she wouldn't miss the church service that immediately preceded Lent. She left in such a hurry that she still wore her apron and a headscarf - the latter required for women attending church.

The next year, the women of Olney launched a race in which they each tried to reach church first while carrying and flipping a pancake and, of course, wearing aprons and headscarves. Today, women in the two towns race simultaneously and Liberal's four-day event also includes pancake eating and cooking contests, a parade, English High Tea and other races.

Pancakes have become an integral part of Liberal's culture, and griddle cake lovers have flocked to The Pancake House, on Pancake Boulevard, for more than three decades.

This homey spot offers hearty food at great prices, such as this breakfast of strawberry pancakes accompanied by Canadian bacon, hash browns, a fried egg and coffee, plus an gargantuan helping of whipped cream. Hunters, ranchers, travelers, social workers and families all enjoy breakfast here. Adventurous diners may try chocolate chip or butterscotch pancakes and berry syrups too - or waffles or crepes.

The restaurant also serves sandwiches and a wide variety of entrees. But in a place that serves legendary breakfasts, why would you order anything else?

Queen's Pantry - Leavenworth

2010-01-08T12:16:00.000-06:00

Nearly 35,000 people live in Leavenworth, the state's first city. Approximately 9,000 soldiers and their family members live on the Fort Leavenworth army base, and thousands of people call on the post each year, including international visitors.

So it's no wonder that Queen's Pantry, tucked away on a quiet block near the town's main thoroughfare, does a big business. Open since 1999, the family owned and operated company pays homage to the founder's mother, who is British. The shop offers more than 200 varieties of British tea, from Pumpkin Spice and Raspberry Chocolate Truffle, to Spiced Pear Tart, Spearmint Herbal, oolong and white tea - the largest British tea inventory in the Midwest. In addition, Queen's Pantry sells this region's largest selections of British food and gifts.

Visitors also can purchase hot or cold to-go items from London On the Go. This small, British-inspired deli at the back of Queen's Pantry, offers such classic dishes as Fish and Chips (Thurs.-Sat., only) or Shepherd's Pie. There are plenty of luscious desserts too, including several varieties of cheesecake and baby scones.

For a true taste of Britain in the country's Heartland, Queen's Pantry and London on the Go clearly fit the bill. Not sure when you'll get to Leavenworth? You can order many items online, at http://www.qptea.com/ - but probably not the fish and chips.

Circle S Ranch & Country Inn - Lawrence area

2010-01-08T12:10:00.000-06:00

It has been more than a decade since my husband and I celebrated our anniversary in this room at Circle S Ranch and Country Inn, outside of Lawrence. After we drove down a long country road to reach the inn, the exterior that resembled an old Kansas barn was nothing like the casual luxury we found inside.The Blue and White Room still has the same claw foot tub and soothing blue walls that I remember from that special weekend.

The two story 'living room' hasn't changed much either. Double fireplaces still warm visitors during cold weather as they sink into deep leather couches and oversized chairs, chat and relax. The massive hot tub built in the modern silo looks very similar too.

Visitors can still fish on the property, hike throughout the farm's undisturbed acreage, watch the sunset from a rocker on the front porch, or read away the hours beside a roaring fire. They still enjoy enormous, country-style buffet breakfasts after each night's stay and can purchase a multi-course dinner in the casual dining room with Western decor.

But Jack and Mary, the owners of this family farm and highly successful inn don't rest on their laurels. In recent years, they've added a bar, an entry courtyard and patio, and a conference and media center. There's also a party barn where weddings and private parties of up to 200 people frequently take place.

Since none of the 12 rooms at Circle S are the same, visitors can choose a different environment each time they make a reservation, such as this one, called the Cowboy Room. There's also the Celestial Room, with moons and stars in the headboard and a private fireplace, or the Claret Room. Often called the honeymoon suite, it has a double-sided fireplace, a two-person whirlpool tub and a loveseat.

For a luxury getaway amidst calming natural beauty, Circle S delivers - time after time.

Neewollah's 90th Anniversary - Independence

2010-01-08T12:00:00.000-06:00

Who would have guessed, 90 years ago, that Independence, Kansas, a town of less than 10,000 residents, would eventually host the state's largest annual festival? Held every October to coincide with Halloween, the Neewollah celebration in Independence has become a 10-day extravaganza of food, games, and hours of dynamite nightly entertainment. In fact, this year's signature Saturday evening concert event was by Smash Mouth, with tickets starting at only $25!

People from all over the state - and the world - attend this event. And locals, including public school students, often eat lunch as they walk along the main drag or sit at one of the many picnic tables placed on the sidewalk. Dozens of food vendors offer everything from luscious Strawberry Newberg to freshly squeezed limeade or chicken on a stick.

During each evening of Neewollah, and on the weekends, downtown Independence assumes the atmosphere of an old-fashioned carnival, with no cars allowed and dozens of visitors strolling from ride to game to performance stage, where they sit in the folding chairs they've brought along for the event.

If you're looking for a new way to enjoy Kansas' fall season, Neewollah is well worth making a special trip to Southeastern Kansas, and a perfect way to celebrate Halloween. But watch out - you're likely to return again and again.

Exploring Route 66 - Southeast Kansas

2010-01-08T11:48:00.000-06:00

Only 12.8 miles of historic Route 66 passes through Kansas' southeast corner - the smallest number of miles in any state along this legendary road. But there's a wealth of cool places to visit near this little stretch of pavement.

Fans of Guy Fieri's Food Network program, Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, may remember one great dining spot that's located along the main drag of Baxter Springs - Cafe on the Route. Although I (unfortunately) didn't see the episode, that national exposure is part of what led me to the cafe. And I was blown away by this place.

After a huge breakfast at a Pittsburg B & B, I wasn't ready for a big meal when I reached Baxter Springs but there was no way that I'd pass up this place. So I ordered a chicken wrap sandwich and a side of their famous fried potato salad with mustard glaze.

The wrap tasted great but I was determined to duplicate the fried potato salad from my first bite. Skin-on potato chunks, with a bit of crunch and lots of soft, were bathed in this amazing glaze that owners, Richard and Amy Sanell, should seriously consider bottling. You get plenty of food for your money too - before the sandwich/side arrived, I also received a huge salad topped with homemade croutons and a small, light-as-air corn muffin.

Dinner entrees ranged from Chateaubriand to Apple Smoked Salmon, Pesto Pork, Honey Mustard Chicken and Nutcrusted Catfish. The Sanells also run a tasteful B & B upstairs, The Little Brick Inn.

In tiny nearby Riverton, grab a freshly made sandwich from the antique deli counter at Eisler Brothers Old Riverton Store, chow down in the sun-filled, porch-like dining area, and then browse through an amazing array of Route 66 memorabilia and souvenirs in the back room. Opened in 1925, the store draws visitors from throughout the U.S. and the world. This favorite stop for Route 66 fans gained additional exposure as inspiration for the Disney Pixar movie, Cars. After 75 years of operation, the store still offers groceries, produce, and flowers with a large side of memorabilia.

Don't miss this spot when you cross southeastern Kansas. Better yet, make a special trip there and return home with a new appreciation of the Route and its legendary status in America's culture of the open road. And take home a Route 66 shot glass or T-shirt while you're at it.

Emporia's Granadas

2010-01-08T11:31:00.000-06:00

Mother, Kim Redeker, and daughter, Toni Bowling, saw a perfect spot to open the chocolate business they had dreamed of, beside Emporia's Granada Theater. In anticipation of the theater's restoration, these budding chocolatiers opened The Sweet Granada - A Chocolate Cafe next door. By the time the theater's magnicent interior restoration was completed, about 18 months ago, the women already had several successful years of operation under their belts.

Redeker and Bowling have tantalized sweet tooths with a wide variety of luscious chocolates and other confections since the 2004 holiday season. Today they get rave reviews for their fudge, from creamy Amaretto Chocolate Swirl to a highly unusual Lemon Meringue variety, made with marshmallow cream. They also douse huge strawberries in chocolate, and double dip cherries so it looks like they're wearing tuxedos.

Being chocolatiers was a new venture for both ladies, who spent a year studying how to make chocolates before they opened. And their efforts have paid off in the form of multiple awards, including 2006 Emerging Business of the Year, from Kansas Small Business Development.

The pair uses only Guittard white, milk, dark, or extra dark chocolate, and hand-make every item, from chocolate covered popcorn to hand-dipped Oreos and Champagne Truffles. Visitors also can pick up assorted goodies in the shop or order online - The Sweet Granada will ship anywhere. And that's a very sweet option.

Food & Fun at the Kansas State Fair - Hutchinson

2010-01-08T11:22:00.000-06:00

I attended the Kansas State Fair for the first time, in September. What a cool event! If you can't find something to do here, you're not trying very hard. There are dozens of rides and activities for kids of every age, and an equal number of livestock displays and competitions spread throughout the 10-day fair. Visitors can listen to live music, check out a nostalgic car show beneath the trees in Gottshalk Park or watch cowpokes attempt to shoot balloons mounted on construction cones as they zip around an indoor arena on horseback.

But my favorite part of the event is the food. You could eat your way through this fair and rarely repeat the menu even if you attended every day. Sample the state's best adult beverages at the Kansas Wine & Beer Garden. Purchase a tall, freshly squeezed cherry limeade or crunchy fried green tomatoes. Chow down on a bierock or - my personal favorite - a small block of vanilla ice cream drenched in hardened chocolate, topped with crushed peanuts.

If you've never visited the Kansas State Fair before, you don't know what you're missing.

The (Surprising) Henderson House Inn and Retreat Center - Stafford

2010-01-08T11:11:00.000-06:00

There's a surprising 'neighborhood' in tiny Stafford. From the outside, Henderson House looks like nothing more than a beautifully restored 1905 National Register of Historic Places home, with a nicely painted sign. But it's only one of multiple buildings that comprise Henderson House Inn and Retreat Center, located less than an hour outside bustling Hutchinson.

The equally impressive Spickard House lies on the opposite corner. Guests also may stay at Littlefield House, just down the block, or at Weide House, which anchors the next intersection. The entire 'neighborhood' provides dozens of beds and multiple private baths amidst Victorian luxury and modern convenience. At Spickard House, guests from all houses eat breakfast on lace and linen-topped dining tables, which range from egg casserole - a comfort-food concoction of shredded hash browns, eggs, and cheese - to large, homemade cinnamon rolls.

But owner, Clare Moore, had more in mind than a traditional bed and breakfast when he assembled his neighborhood. That's why he also purchased an antique church and added a pavilion to the back of Littlefield House, with meeting rooms for up to 125 people, WiFi, a commercial kitchen and contracts available for multiple meals and refreshments. Moore also offers Murder Mystery or Wings N Wetlands Weekends (Quivira National Wildlife Refuge is nearby) and encourages wedding or hunting gatherings.

The Henderson complex is perhaps Stafford's busiest neighborhood - and it's best kept secret.

A Kansas Prairie Burn

2010-01-08T11:00:00.000-06:00

With only 1/2 an hour left before I would reach my destination, a ranch west of Emporia, I began to see wide charred fields along either side of the road. As I turned in at Grandview Ranch, dozens of visitors crowded the driveway and open area.

We had gathered to watch a carefully orchestrated prairie burn, designed to help protect the land from invasion of unwanted trees and brush. Five to 10 days after a burn, the land is once again green and growing. And prairie burns leave charred fields on many farms at this time of year.

Owner, Jan Jantzen, gave us our safety instructions. He said that, during the burn, if caught by the fire - though this is a rare occurrence - we should 'move to black or blue.' Black is already charred ground where there's nothing left to burn and blue is a pond. Then we headed towards the field that Jantzen would burn. Some visitors volunteered to light small patches of grass and then spread these tiny fires towards each other, to get the burn started.

Flames fanned out across the pasture with amazing speed, engulfing vegetation as they created row after row of roaring orange blazes and a rather otherworldly landscape.

Finally, the burn slowed and the 'show' ended. Handfuls of spectators road on a farm truck or hoofed it back to the barn area. A trio of country musicians performed in one barn while we chowed down on an old-fashioned chuckwagon supper that began with pulled pork and ended with fresh berry cobbler.

As the sun set, another blaze raced up a nearby hillside and Jantzen prepared for the evening burn event on his second field. Regrettably, storm clouds and a 2 1/2 hour drive home chased me away. I'll have to return next spring.

Where Veterans Day Began: Emporia

2010-01-08T10:51:00.000-06:00

Emporia's population hovers around 30,000 - a fairly large place when compared with many Kansas towns, though not exactly huge. But a very big idea came out of Emporia during the 1950s.

After World War I ended, November 11, 1919 was set aside as 'Armistice Day' - a time to remember the sacrifices of American soldiers who had fought in the great war, and give thanks for the peace that had been achieved. But peace was short-lived when World War II began, in 1927.

In 1953, residents of Emporia re-christened November 11 as 'Veterans Day' in gratitude to all veterans from the city. Soon afterwards, a Kansas congressman suggested that Armistice Day be renamed Veterans Day across the nation. By the next year President Eisenhower had signed a bill renaming the federal holiday Veterans Day. Finally, President Nixon declared the second Monday in November a federal holiday called Veterans Day, in 1971.

But Emporia residents didn't stop there. On May 26, 1991 this city was the first in the United States to dedicate an All Veterans Memorial that recognized the sacrifices of all soldiers who fought in conflicts from the Civil War through the Gulf War. Today, Soden's Grove All Veterans Memorial features a World War II M-4A6 Sherman army tank, a Military Order of the Purple Heart Monument for the State of Kansas, and a Huey helicopter from the Vietnam War, as well as numerous other monuments.

In this quiet and peaceful place, soldiers are still honored and remembered daily and with reverence.

Green Refreshment in Leavenworth

2010-01-08T10:41:00.000-06:00

I arrived in Leavenworth at 9:30 on Thursday morning. My first stop was the Corner Pharmacy Old Fashioned Soda Fountain, where several families enjoyed breakfast as I ordered a cup of coffee. For only $3.19 they could order a daily special anytime until close, with 2 eggs, hash browns and toast. Add a cinnamon roll for only $1.09. And a bottomless cup of joe (in house) cost only 79 cents - an amazing deal in this day and age.

First opened in 1871, the soda fountain is decorated with black and white photos from another time, an antique 'Apothecary' sign above the archway between soda fountain and drug store, and soda fountain spigots that await summertime customers. Of course they serve real malts, original shakes, ice cream floats and ice cream sundaes.

There are also old-fashioned favorites such as sarsaparilla, birch beer, root beer and cream soda, as well as phosphates made with strawberry, cherry, or vanilla flavor, citric acid and carbonated water. But there's one beverage at the Corner Pharmacy Old Fashioned Soda Fountain that I'd never seen before, and may never see again - the Green River. It's a combination of lemon-lime syrup, ice, simple syrup and carbonated water. The result is brilliant green, sweet, and thirst quenching from the first sip.

A perfect accompaniment while strolling Leavenworth's historic main street and visiting one of the nation's top quilt stores, a bookstore that's crammed with reading materials throughout every square foot of space, and an antique store that brims with treasures.

Taos Indians in Scott City

2010-01-08T10:30:00.000-06:00

One afternoon in early May, a handful of RVs were parked on utility campsites at Lake Scott State Park and Wildlife Area, in Scott City. The nearby Beach House and Bait and Tackle Shop would open after Memorial Day. Occasional fisherman cast their lines into the 100-acre-lake where miniature white caps had developed in a strong spring wind. But few other vehicles traveled the quiet, winding roads and rolling hills with me.

There are many features here that you would expect to find in any large state park. The bait and tackle shop offers boat rentals and groceries, in season. There's also a swimming beach and a playground, dozens of campsites, two shower buildings, and nature trails catering to hikers, horseback riders and nature lovers. A small house/museum commemorates the Steele family who donated 640 acres of their homestead to help create the park and recreation area.

But this park has one very surprising feature, too. Barely visible from the main road lie reconstructed building foundations with an unusual history. The site known as El Cuartelejo Indian Pueblo represents the last vestiges of a small pueblo settlement established there by the Taos Indians as they fled Spanish rule during the mid-1600s. Twenty years later, they returned to their native home. The settlement remained dormant until Picurie Indians settled there for a couple of years near the turn of the century.

Not until the mid-1890s were the pueblo ruins found and excavated, and they received National Historical Landmark status 70 years later. Today, these small, reconstructed foundations remind visitors of a fleeting connection between the Taos Indians and the state of Kansas.

Free State Brewing Company - Lawrence

2010-01-08T10:22:00.000-06:00

It's been 20 years since Free State Brewing Company, in Lawrence, became the first legal Kansas brewery, in more than 100 years. The thriving company crafts more than 20,000 barrels of beer, annually, in its 14-barrel brewhouse, and also has its own bottling facility. And customers can watch as brewers work behind two-story floor-to-ceiling windows of this one-time trolley barn while they sip brews over lunch or dinner.

There are plenty of choices for beer lovers. In addition to the brewery's original Ad Astra beer visitors may enjoy Copperhead Pale Ale, Ironman Imperial Stout, Oatmeal Stout, Old Backus Barleywine, Wheat State Golden, Lovejoy IPA, Old Stormy and Walloon Gold. Not sure which one to pick? Try a few samples, at $1.35 a pour, and then order a full-sized serving of your favorite.

Free State Brewing Company also has a large menu in which many healthy and locally produced items star. Flavorful and filling black bean quesadillas come with Spanish rice with loads of cheese, sour cream and salsa. Hand-cut fries and a dill pickle spear accompany the thick turkey bacon sandwich served on ultra-fresh foccacia bread.

Free State Brewing Company offers great beer and good food in historic surroundings, with a clear view of the brewery. And, if you want a souvenir of your visit, they'll even sell you a T-shirt or pint glass.